PLANT CARE:  ALWAYS DISINFECT YOUR PLANTS

The single most important factor in growing and maintaining aquarium plants is very strong lighting!  Standard aquarium lights that are sold in combination with a cover or hood either with the aquarium when you buy it or sold separately are NOT sufficient or strong enough!   Even with the addition of plant fertilizers or CO2 fertilizers, your plants will have very poor growth, stagnate or die from such poor quality lighting. 

Live plants can be kept with few problems as long as there is plenty of light, no plant-eating or plant-destroying fish and your water has the proper nutrients to sustain plants.

When you get new plants from us or somewhere else, be sure to acclimate them to their new home (tank). Keep the plants in the plastic bag they came in, keep the bag sealed and place them into your tank to float on top of the water to allow the temperature to equalize before taking them out of the bag and planting them in your tank.  This may take up to 4-5 hours!  Plants cannot take drastic temperature changes, as the shock will kill them.  If the plants are subjected to temperature abuse, within a week you will see them slowly wilt and die.  If you do not equalized the temperature and you have poor lighting, nothing will prevent your plants from dieing.

New plants may have unwanted hitchers: snails, algae or disease.  Disinfection can help reduce their transmission into the tank, and can be used to remove algae growths from established plants. Beware, there is always a danger of going too far and damaging the plant itself.
Some popular methods:
*** A ten minute soak in potassium permanganate (pale purple) works well; it is available in dilute form      from Jungle products as "Clear Water". Permanganate is particularly good for killing bacteria and pathogens.
*** A 2-day soak in 1 tbsp/gallon of alum (buy it at drug stores) is good for killing snails and their eggs.
*** If the plants are kept in a fish-free system for three weeks, parasites like ich and velvet will die without their fish hosts.


Photosynthesis
Photosynthesis is the process by which plants convert carbon dioxide gas and water are converted with the help of light energy into glucose (energy) and oxygen gas. This process can be expressed in the equation:

6C2O + 6H2O + sunlight => C6H12O6 + 6O2

Thus in an aquarium during the day, plants use the carbon dioxide, produced by fish, and water to produce oxygen and energy. The oxygen is used by fish for respiration. At night, there is no sunlight or artificial for the plants to carry out photosynthesis, so the plants must rely on respiration to make energy. So, plants take in oxygen and produce carbon dioxide. Because of nighttime plant respiration, the carbon dioxide level in an aquarium rises at night, but once the light is turned on, the carbon dioxide levels drop due to plant photosynthesis.

Substrate
One of the more critical factors in growing and maintaining your plants is the substrate (commonly referred to as gravel).  Plants do best in most fine gravels with some sort of base fertilizer. Base fertilizer is not required, but is recommended.  Iron rich fertilizers like Jungle's "Plant Food Tabs" 0-0-6, "Water Conditioning Fizz Tabs"  and their "CO2 System for Live Plants" are highly recommended.  Some gravels sold in aquarium shops are not recommended for plants as they can do more harm than good.  Some gravels do not absorb, sustain and pass the nutrients in the water to the plant roots.  Some gravels are very harmful to plants because they change the water chemistry.  

Lighting
The most important ingredients to a successful plant aquarium is strong lighting. As a general rule, 5-7 watts per gallon is sufficient for a well-planted aquarium. Often light is measured on a scale of lux. The following table gives the light requirements in terms of lux for plants growing at different water levels:

Light

Fluorescent bulbs have proven to be the most practical bulb for lighting planted tanks. However, in tanks deeper than 20" (50 cm), most fluorescent bulbs are not strong enough to illuminate the tank sufficiently, so mercury vapor lamps can be used. For mercury vapor lamps, use about 6.25 watts per inch (2.5 cm) of tank length.

Be aware that the intensity of fluorescent tubes decreases subtly, with time. Thus one tube should be replaced every six months.

Water
Most aquarium plants can be kept in water with a hardness from 4-12 dH, and a pH from 6.5-7.2. Jungle offer an array of products to test your water and condition your water in order to maintain your plants and fish.  The water should be kept as clean and clear as possible because free debris can settle on plant leaves or cloud the water, interfering with light intensity. Very few aquatic plant species can survive in brackish water.  Use a plant fertilizer to help them to grow.  We sell and recommend Jungle's large selection of plant care products.  (See our fertilizers).

Nutrients
Plants require macro- and micro nutrients to grow. Macro nutrients are substances that are required in relatively large amounts such as nitrates, phosphates, and sulfates. These nutrients usually occur naturally in the aquarium from tap water and fish. When these levels rise to excessive amounts, an "algae bloom" can result. Nitrate levels rise do to their production by fish. Thus these macro nutrients need not be added to the aquarium.

Micro nutrients are elements that are required in trace amounts. Micro nutrients important to plants include copper, iron, manganese, boron, zinc, and calcium. These elements are needed in only the smallest amounts, and excess can prove harmful.

The following table reviews some of the major nutrients important to aquatic plant growth. (The macro nutrients are marked with an asterisk*)

Nutrient - Function

• Magnesium (Mg) - An important nutrient used to activate enzymes for photosynthesis
• Potassium (K) - A key componet of a plants biological system
• Iron (Fe) - used in chloroplast formation (chloroplasts are the structure in which photosynthesis occurs.
• Nitrogen (N) - (usually in the form of ammonia or nitrate) necessary for protein synthesis
• Carbon Dioxide (CO2) - Absorbed by plants from the water and neccessary for growth 

When there is a deficiency of nutrients, the plants suffer. If the leaves yellow faster than usual, there could be a deficiency of nitrogen or sulfur. If the leaves yellow starting at the tips or the leafs seem especially brittle, an iron deficiency should be suspect. Evidence of an over fertilization of iron or a manganese, phosphorous, or potassium deficiency is yellow spots on the leaves.

Fertilization
We recommend Jungle fertilizers and plant products which are specially prepared for aquatic plants.  Be careful not to overdose with a fertilizer because plants and fish can be damaged.  See out list of products for sale.

Carbon dioxide
Carbon dioxide is used by plants for photosynthesis and is a fundamental compound to the success of a planted aquarium. Carbon dioxide is present in aquariums as a byproduct of fish respiration and nitrification, and dissolved in the water from the atmosphere.  However, it may not be present in sufficient amounts.  Carbon dioxide levels should range from 5-15 Mg/l, once the level surpasses 20 Mg/l, fish may be harmed.  Carbon dioxide can be added to the fish tank using Jungle's carbon dioxide fertilizing system.

Filtration
Almost any filtration system will work in a plant tank. The main requirements of the filtration system are: 1) that it does not create much water disturbance, because precious carbon dioxide will be lost.  I most cases good filters create to much water disturbance and the decrease in carbon dioxide can't be helped.  (2) that the filter remove floating particles that may block the lighting or settle on plant leaves; (3) and that the filter create some current to keep nutrients moving through the water and to prevent debris from settling on leaves.

Under gravel filters are the worst offenders because the air bubbles create surface disturbance and the filter plate limits substrate size and composition.

Planting
Before planting the aquarium, make a rough sketch of how the tank should look. Include rocks and wood structures and plants so that there is a plan to follow.

Plants fall into different categories as to how tall they grow and their shape:

Foreground: Foreground plants are small, low growing species that often form carpet-like matting by producing numerous runner plants. Foreground plants often inhabit shallow water and may require bright lighting. Plant foreground plants in front of middle ground and background plants.

Middle ground: Middle ground plants are medium sized species that can be used behind foreground plants, but in front of background plants. Middle ground plants can block unsightly stems of background plants.

Background: Background plants are usually tall and can be used to block out heaters, filters, hoses, and wires. Background plants are generally fast-growing species that require less light than foreground and middle ground species.

Bunch Plants: Bunch plants are usually middle ground or background species that look good in groups of several. Bunch plants are often easily propagated by cuttings.

Specimen Plants: Specimen plants are usually large, decorative species that are planted singly in the middle ground or background. Specimen plants are often used as a focal point and may be highlighted with a spot-light.

Contrast Plants: Different-looking plants can be used as a contrast to the other plants in the tank. Red-leafed plants can be used as a color contrast to green plants, while plants with pointed leaves can be used as a shape contrast to those with large round leaves. When contrasting plants, place plants with similarities in color, size, or shape away from one another, while planting plants with differences closer together.

Floating Plants: Floating plants require plenty of light, but must protected from leaf burn by leaving distance between them and the bulb. Floating plants often propagate very quickly by division and in a short matter of time, take over and aquarium and block out light. Floating plants should be kept out of the light path of plants below that require a lot of light.

Propagation
Plants have several means of reproducing. Some species reproduce amazingly fast, taking over an entire tank in a matter of weeks, while others do not appear to propagate themselves at all.

Cuttings: Cuttings are the easiest way to propagate plants. Simple cut a lengthy (6-8") section of stalk from the plant and plant it in the gravel. Plant cuttings with at least 1" (2.5 cm) of the stem under the substrate. Remove the leaves on the section that will be in the substrate. Plant tubers and bulbs at a 45° angle in the substrate with the growing tip pointing out of the gravel. Both the cutting and the original plant should continue to grow. Most bunch plants can reproduce by cuttings.

Runners: Many aquarium plants, especially foreground and Sword plant species produce outgrowths known as runners. These new shoots are formed on stems and usually grow along the substrate or within the substrate. Plants that reproduce by runners (daughter plants), are often prolific.

Rhizome: The roots of some plants produce side-shoots. These plants can be propagated by cutting the rhizome into pieces. Be sure to include some leaves and some roots with the rhizome. Replant the cut sections along the surface of the substrate. These sections should root.

Adventitious plants: Adventitious plants are plantlets that arise from the mother plant. The mother plant produces a number of plantlets with drift free of the mother plant, and root on their own. Adventitious plants will either be released by the mother plant or can be cut when the plantlets reach a suitable size. Also referred to as "division."

Seeds: Plants that flower produce seeds only after pollination, in nature, usually be insects. In aquaria, use a fine brush to transfer pollen from the stamens to the stigmas.

Pruning
Like land plants, aquarium plants need to be pruned and thinned on a regular basis. Many of the taller, stalky species will actually grow out of the water if they are left unpruned. Other tall species will grow along the water surface and block out light to lower species if they are not trimmed. Prunings of many species, can be replanted. With leafy plants, like Swords, the large, outer leaves may need to be removed to make room for new growth. Plants with floating leaves like Nymphaea species, need to be cut back so that the light is not blocked from lower plants. Cut the upper leaves until only the lower leaves remain. When plant branches become dense, they should be thinned by removing some branches.

Plants to avoid
There are several plants sold as aquatic plants in pet stores that are not actually aquatic. These plants do not grow for long underwater and eventually end up polluting the tank when they die. Among some of the commonly available nonaquatic species are: Aglaonema, Brazilian Sword, Cherry Hedge, Draceana (Princess Pine), Green Hedge, Mondo Grass, and "palms."

Algae
Almost every aquarium is plagued at some point by an "algae bloom." "Algae blooms" can be fueled by excess light, especially sunlight, and excess nutrients, especially nitrate and phosphate buildup. Thus "algae blooms" can often be prevented by regular water changes and placing the tank away from direct sunlight.  Algae blooms can be controlled by using Jungle's "No more Algae" products.  There are several types of algae common in the aquarium:

GREEN ALGAE
Green thread (filamentous) algae: Green thread algae forms long, green, filaments which often grow from plants. Thread algae needs abundant light to thrive. Thread algae can be damaging to the aquarium by taking important nutrients that aquarium plants require. Thread algae can be controlled by algae-eating fish or by manual removal.

Pelt algae: Pelt algae adheres to plant leaves by a single filament an reaches a length of 0.8" (2 cm). Pelt algae usually develop in water with a high nitrate content and can cause plant leaves to die. To eradicate pelt algae, remove the filaments manually, introduce algae-eaters (Flying Foxes) or snails (ramshorn). Regular water changes slow pelt algae growth.

Suspended algae: Suspended algae usually resembles green water and is comprised of Volvox. Suspended algae is most commonly introduced when pond foods are fed.  Algaecides, like Jungle's No More Algae" can also be used to get rid of suspended algae.

Green spot algae: A small, dark green algae that forms small, round spots on the leaves of plants and the tank glass. This species thrives in poor and unstable water conditions. Algae eating fish and snails can rid the aquarium of green spot algae. The stabilization of water conditions helps slow green spot algae growth.

Green bunch algae: This algae forms bunches up to 1.2" (3 cm) long. Green algae is most prevalent in tanks with excessive lighting and fertilization. 

BLUE-GREEN ALGAE
Blue-green algae: Blue-green algae form a layer that covers plants and gravel. Blue-green algae are fueled by excessive illumination and high nitrate and phosphate levels. Blue-green algae can produce toxins that are harmful to fish. Blue green-algae are often refused by algae-eating fish because of its bad taste. Apple snails can slow blue-green algae growth. 

RED ALGAE
Beard algae: Beard algae forms long (up to 6"-15 cm), black to dark green, branches that are introduced with new aquarium plants and are prominent with high nitrate levels and/or carbon dioxide deficiency. Beard algae firmly attaches to plant leaves, so manual removal is damaging to the plant. Algae-eating fish can eliminate beard algae as can carbon dioxide fertilization.

Black spot algae: Black spot algae form small, black spots on plant leaves. The cause of black algae is unclear, but excess nutrients (nitrate) and light help its spread. Control is very difficult, the best means to take is to remove affected leaves.

Black brush algae: Black brush algae forms dark, muddy-green bunches that adhere leaves, rocks, gravel, and wood. This red algae causes leaves to die off and thrives in acidic water with a high nutrient load. Short forms can be removed by algae-eating fish, but long forms are best combated by carbon dioxide fertilization.

DIATOMS
Diatoms: Diatoms develop in aquaria that are poorly illuminated, have a high load of nitrate and phosphate, and a pH above 7. Diatoms forms a brownish layer on plants, rocks, and glass and can be removed by snails and algae-eaters. Diatoms die off when water conditions improve and lighting intensity is increased.

Algaecides
Algaecides are chemicals that can be used to eliminate algal growth in the aquaria. Algaecides work on a limited range of algae including filamentous, blue-green, and diatoms. 

Trouble-shooting with Plants
Besides algal infestations, plants can suffer other ailments, especially when the water conditions are not favorable. Water with incorrect properties can cause as much or more damage to a plant than nutrient deficiency. If plants begin to wane (i.e. prematurely yellowing and losing leaves, leaf damage), first check that the water conditions are in order. If they are, see the chart below for help.

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